Dubrovnik: travel guide

Matteo Massoni

Overlooking the deep blue of the Adriatic Sea and surrounded by imposing medieval walls, Dubrovnik is one of those cities that manage to combine history, sea, gastronomy and Mediterranean atmosphere in a relatively small space.

Known as the “Pearl of the Adriatic”, Dubrovnik is located in the extreme south of Croatia, along the Dalmatian coast, not far from the borders with Bosnia-Herzegovina and Montenegro. Its historic center, with characteristic houses with terracotta roofs, fortifications and limestone roads, has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979.

It is a particularly interesting destination because it can be experienced in very different ways: you can spend a whole day walking through monuments and alleys of the historic center, alternating cultural visits and baths in the Adriatic Sea or use it as a base to explore some of the most beautiful places in Dalmatia and even bordering on neighboring Montenegro and Bosnia-Herzegovina.

How to get to Dubrovnik

By plane

The easiest way to get to Dubrovnik is, of course, by plane.

Dubrovnik Airport (DBV) is located about 20 km from the city center and is connected to the destination by buses, taxis and private transfers. During the summer season, international air connections increase significantly and Dubrovnik is reached directly from many European cities. For those departing from Italy, seasonal direct flights or connections with a stopover are often available, depending on the city of departure and the time of year. From other European destinations you can find direct connections especially during the spring and summer, while out of season it can be more convenient to fly to Zagreb, Split or another important European hub and continue to Dubrovnik.

By car

Dubrovnik can also be reached by car, although its geographical location makes it less immediate than other Croatian cities. For those who travel the Dalmatian coast, arriving by car allows you to turn the trip into a real road trip, stopping along the way in places such as Split, Makarska, Ston or on the Pelješac peninsula. Once you arrive, I recommend leaving your car parked and moving on foot or by public transport: the historic center is pedestrian and the streets around the walls can be very busy, especially in the summer months.

By ferry

Another possibility is to get there by sea. The port of Gruž is connected to several Adriatic destinations and some Croatian islands; there are also seasonal maritime connections with Italy, including Bari. This can be a great solution if Dubrovnik is part of a longer route along the Croatian coast.

What to see and do in Dubrovnik

1. Walking along the city walls

If there is only one experience not to be missed in Dubrovnik, it is this one.

The Walls of Dubrovnik represent the most iconic image of the city and are one of the best preserved fortification systems in Europe. They extend for about 1,940 meters and include towers and fortifications that allow you to admire the city from completely different perspectives.

The walk takes about an hour and a half, considering stops for photographs and views, but it can easily get longer if you want to enjoy the views calmly.

From here you can see from above:

  • The historic center with its red roofs;
  • The old port;
  • The island of Lokrum;
  • The open sea;
  • The fortifications of Dubrovnik;
  • The fortress of Lovrijenac.

The advice: go early in the morning or late in the afternoon. In the central hours the combination of sun, stone and climb can make the walk much more challenging.

2. Stradun, The heart of the city

Once you enter the old town, the first road to go is Stradun, the large pedestrian artery that crosses Dubrovnik from east to west.

It is impossible not to pass by, but it is also worth stopping to observe the details of the buildings, the stone facades and the daily life of the city.

Stradun is particularly suggestive at sunset and after sunset, when the flow of visitors decreases and Dubrovnik takes on a completely different atmosphere.

3. Luža Square and the Rector’s Palace

Continuing towards the eastern part of the historic center you arrive at Luža Square, one of the most scenic spaces in Dubrovnik.

Here are some of the city’s main historic buildings, including the Rector’s Palace, the Clock Tower and the church of San Biagio.

The Rector’s Palace is also worth a visit for the interiors, which tell the political and institutional history of the ancient Republic of Ragusa.

4. Assumption Cathedral

Dubrovnik Cathedral is another of the main points of interest in the historic center.

Inside there is an important treasure trove of sacred art, with works dating back to different historical periods. It is a relatively short visit and fits easily during the walk in the center.

5. Franciscan monastery

The Franciscan Monastery is interesting not only for its architecture but also for its historic pharmacy, traditionally considered one of the oldest in Europe. The pharmacy dates back to the 14th century and the complex preserves numerous elements of great historical interest. It is one of the perfect stages to enter during the visit without having to spend too much time.

6. Lovrijenac Fortress

Outside the walls, on top of a rocky spur overlooking the sea, is the Lovrijenac Fortress.

The location is spectacular and allows you to have one of the best views on the profile of the fortified city.

For fans of Game of Thrones it is also one of the most recognizable locations of the series.

7. Climb Mount Srđ

To see Dubrovnik from above, the viewpoint of Mount Srđ is practically mandatory.

It can be reached by cable car or by car/taxi. From above there is an extraordinary view of the historic center, the sea and the surrounding islands.

It is particularly suggestive at sunset, when the walls and roofs of Dubrovnik are illuminated by the warm sunlight.

8. Lokrum

A few hundred meters from the city is Lokrum, a green and rocky island easily accessible from the old port.

It is perfect for a different half day than usual: nature, trails, coves and crystal clear water.

If you have more days available, it can be a great way to take a break from the old town and the crowds.

9. Get lost in the hidden corners of the city

One of the best things to do in Dubrovnik is also the easiest: get away from Stradun and get lost in the alleys of the historic center.

The side streets are often much quieter and allow you to discover small restaurants, wine bars, courtyards and much more authentic views.

Dubrovnik should also be visited without a precise list of monuments to check off.

The best trips out of Dubrovnik

The location of Dubrovnik allows you to organize numerous day trips.

Bosnia and Herzegovina: Mostar and Kravica Falls

One of the most interesting excursions is the one that leads to Bosnia-Herzegovina.

During my stay I chose a day dedicated to Mostar and the Kravica waterfalls, starting from Dubrovnik in the morning and returning in the evening.

Mostar is famous above all for the Stari Most, the characteristic Ottoman bridge that crosses the Neretva, but it is also worth spending time on the streets of the historic center, the bazaars and the atmosphere completely different from the Croatian coast.

The Kravica waterfalls, on the other hand, represent the most naturalistic part of the excursion: a large waterfall surrounded by greenery, particularly suggestive during the hottest months.

It is a challenging trip in terms of hours of travel, but it allows you to see another country and two very different realities in a single day.

To consider: since this is an international crossing, it is important to check before departure the documents necessary to enter Bosnia and Herzegovina based on your nationality.

Montenegro: Kotor and Perast

Another very popular excursion leads to Montenegro, especially to Kotor and Perast.

Kotor Bay is spectacular from a scenic point of view: steep mountains that seem to plunge directly into the sea and small historic centers along the coast.

Kotor is perfect for a day dedicated to alleys, squares and historic architecture, while Perast is a much smaller and scenic place.

Also in this case it is necessary to consider the times of crossing the border, especially in high season.Cavtat

Se invece volete una gita molto più semplice, Cavtat è una delle migliori alternative.

Si trova a breve distanza da Dubrovnik ed è una piccola località costiera con un’atmosfera più rilassata rispetto alla città.

È ideale per una mezza giornata tra passeggiata sul lungomare, ristoranti e mare.

Ston and the Pelješac peninsula

For those who love gastronomy and Mediterranean landscapes, it is worth heading to Ston.

The town is famous for its walls, for the production of oysters in the area and for being one of the gateways to the Pelješac peninsula, also known for its wines.

It is a particularly interesting trip for those who want to combine history, cuisine and landscape.

The Elafiti Islands

The islands of Koločep, Lopud and Šipan are another possibility to spend a day at sea.

They are easily accessible from Dubrovnik and are a good alternative if you want to spend a day on nature and the beaches instead of cultural visits.

Mljet

For a more natural day you can instead choose Mljet, one of the greenest islands in the area. The Mljet National Park is characterized by woods, salt lakes and paths surrounded by nature. It is a destination to choose especially if you have at least three days in Dubrovnik and want to add a completely different day from the city visit.

Where to sleep in Dubrovnik

The choice of the area in which to stay changes the experience a lot.

Sleeping directly in the historic center is fascinating, especially if you want to experience Dubrovnik early in the morning and after sunset, but it means giving up many of the typical comforts of large resorts and often having smaller rooms.

For those who prefer high-level hotels, sea view, swimming pool and spa, I recommend looking in the areas immediately outside the historic center.

Rixos Premium Dubrovnik

During my stay I chose the Rixos Premium Dubrovnik, a solution that I find particularly suitable for those who want to combine a city tour and a resort-style stay.

The hotel is located a few minutes walk from the historic center and offers an interesting location because it allows you to easily reach Dubrovnik without giving up the possibility of returning to the hotel and relaxing on the sea.

The property overlooks the Adriatic and has rooms and suites, swimming pools, access to the sea, several restaurants and bars and above all a large wellness area.

One of its strengths is the Anjana Spa, spread over about 2,000 m², with an indoor pool, jacuzzi, Turkish hammam, saunas and relaxation areas.

The gastronomic part is also well developed, with several proposals within the structure, including Umi Teppanyaki, Libertas Fish Restaurant, Mykorini and Turquoise Restaurant.

For a stay of a few days I find particularly pleasant the possibility of alternating a morning in the historic center with a few hours of relaxation at the resort.

Where to eat in Dubrovnik

Dubrovnik is not a destination where eating necessarily means choosing exclusively tourist restaurants. Inside and around the historic center there are several interesting proposals, from traditional Dalmatian cuisine to more contemporary restaurants.

Among those to consider are:

  • Gradska kavana Arsenal Restaurant – in a very scenic location, overlooking the port area and also ideal for a lunch during a visit to the center.
  • Forty Four Restaurant – in the heart of the Old Town, interesting for Mediterranean and fish cuisine.
  • Restaurant Dubrovnik – a more elegant choice for a special dinner.
  • Soul Kitchen Dubrovnik – more informal and contemporary environment, also suitable for lunch.
  • Lucin Kantun Dubrovnik – a good alternative for a Dalmatian cuisine in a picky environment.
  • Konoba Maestro – to consider if you are looking for a more traditional atmosphere.

Of course, in a city like Dubrovnik it is difficult not to come across restaurants with tables in the streets of the historic center: some have a spectacular location, while for a real gastronomic experience it is better to choose with a little more attention.

Among the products to try there are Adriatic fish, squid, octopus, oysters from the Ston area, meat dishes and Dalmatian specialties, accompanied by Croatian wines.

How much time to spend in Dubrovnik?

To see Dubrovnik well I would recommend at least 2-3 days.

With two days you can dedicate the first to the historic center and the walls and the second to Monte Srđ, Lokrum or a few hours at sea.

With three or four days, however, you can start using Dubrovnik as a real base to explore the region, inserting a day in Bosnia-Herzegovina, Montenegro, Ston or on the islands.

My final advice

Dubrovnik is a destination that gives the best of itself when it is not experienced exclusively as a city to visit. The historic center is definitely the protagonist, but part of the charm lies in being able to alternate medieval walls, views from above, Adriatic Sea, restaurants, sunsets and moments of relaxation in the hotel.

For this reason, if you have a few days available, I would avoid filling every day with excursions. I would spend at least a whole day in the city, one at the sea or in Lokrum and then I would choose only one big trip out of town.

And it is precisely this combination — history, sea, gastronomy and the possibility of exploring three countries in a single trip — that makes Dubrovnik one of the most interesting destinations in the Adriatic.

Some photos:

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